Monday, April 16, 2007

Winefest 2007 Dinner Course Development

Winefest 2007 Dinner Course Development


I spend a lot of time reading, investigating, and cooking test stuff to see
if we can find a way to incorporate it into the genre we offer at the catering
company.  While it may seem strange, catering is different than most other
cooking, you have to learn to prepare and cook stuff so it is presentable when
you are going to serve it after hauling it in Cambros for an hour or so.


We have had several meetings about what will be served at this years
September Colorado Mountain Winefest event.  Zane and I will split up for
the first time in a while and he will handle the Wineries event and I will be
bringing back my popular "Steaks, and Reds, and Radical Jazz!"  As usual
are grand event will be the Saturday night Seven Courses and Smooth Jazz wine
pairing dinner.  We have been talking about the courses and what to do for
the event.  I have been pursuing the development of the rabbit course. 
No easy task I tell you, making edible rabbit easy, making edible rabbit and
locating how I will obtain said rabbit, finding said at prices that fit the
ticket price; now that is a little work!  55 rabbits secured for the event,
so I know I can get the livestock at a good price.  So onto the course
development and a little R&D of my own!


Looking around for rabbit, I spy a potential substitute.  I am sure once
I get the hide off of it no one will know!






The furry pet is safe for now as I happen to have half a dozen rabbits in the
freezer.  But one day this spawn of Satan will hear the oven door close
from the inside!  So with the rabbit slacked off and ready for fabrication
the production (or mess as my spouse refers to it) gets under way.





I first remove the loin from the rabbit on both sides with a boning knife.





Then take the aft part of the left loin and match it to the forward part of the
right loin.  Creating a nice even width of meat the whole length.





Most the hard work is done now.  Little more silver skin to trim, but loins
are out unscathed by my sometimes spastic butcher hands.  But something is
missing in the whole scheme of things.  And I just realized what it is that
is missing.  I have been wanting to contrast this dish with wine instead of
pairing it.  So since I am going way earthy on this course, I am going
bright and fruity on the wine.  Merlot comes to mind.  And I have just
the wine to experiment with, by tasting of course!



Break it out along with a nice Riedel piece of stemware.





Still a small problem here!





Ah that is better, this is a very nice and extremely affordable Napa Valley
Merlot.  This bottle is 2002 vintage and is just a very classic merlot. 
But now that we have paused for refreshment and to recharge for the work ahead
we must forge on with the course!



The loins will be marinated with classic Greek seasoning, but done in a rub
style not a liquid bath style, so rub the spice mixture in and wrap it with
plastic wrap.  (This stuff is culinary duct tape!)





And so we will set that part of the project in the reefer for a couple hours to
do its magic.  Meanwhile I have removed the back hoppers from the rabbit
and set them aside for the experiment.  I grab the oven proof stock pot and
through the carcasses into it, toss it with the root vegetables into the oven at
350F for 45 minutes and start the reduction stock.





I have already taken this down by 50 percent, I am bringing it back up with some
cabernet sauvignon I had in the reefer.





And slowly I reduce the stock, never letting it boil and skim the scum off every
20 minutes or so.  As the stock reduces it becomes necessary to reduce the
pot size it is in to keep the depth such that burning is not going to occur. 
This stock is going all the way down to 2 cups where it will be turned into the
finishing sauce with a little green peppercorns.





Then smaller still for the final reduction.





Meanwhile, I have been messing with the idea of all the rabbit legs I am going
to end of with, are rabbit legs lucky?  Only if you can turn them into more
money from the same product!  I have been messing around with a yeast
method I thought of about three months ago.  I am actually marinating the
legs in brewers yeast and letting it do its magic on the protein.







Then the herbs go in to the mixture





This will go into the cooler so the yeast can work the meat over for a while. 
Ended up being three hours, then I roasted them.  Not ready for prime time
yet, but I am on to something here!  I know it and will pursue it as I
continue to roast bunnies developing the course!



Now it is time to prepare the loins for the finish.  Pull the loins remove
the culinary duct tape, and place on the work board.





I have sliced the proscuitto paper thin and have also chose a piece that has
very little fat.  Three overlayed with allow the wrap I want to cover all
the rabbit loin.





Next 8 sheets of filo sheets





And the layering and buttering continues til all eight are wrapped around the
rabbit loin!





 



Once it was all wrapped up, into the over 375 F til it hit 147 F, pulled,
rested, sliced in medallions and served.  I have to say it came out great
for the first attempt.  The reduction sauce will need a little less wine in
it, and the proscuitto will need a little more fat on it for my taste, but all
in all not bad for the first time at it.





And that is the start of the making of a course!  More on it as I move it
closer to a prime time real commercial offering!  In case your wondering, I
had this paired up with Butternut Squash and cocktail onions for a start. 
And a very simple rice pilaf under it.  I also made a tzatziki sauce with a
twist, but it is not ready for public discussion yet.  Both went well, but
not WOW.  And I want dishes that go WOW.



'til we talk again, purchase and prepare a meat you would not normally work
with, you will enjoy the learning experience and you may find a new favorite! 
But leave the house cat alone, they would have to be boiled for 20 years if they
are anything like mine!



Chef Bob Ballantyne

The Cowboy and The Rose Catering

Grand Junction, Colorado, USA

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